MONASTRIES OF LADAKH
Namgyal Tsemo.
No longer inhabited, this gompa was built by King Tashi Namgyal. It
forms a part of the Leh Palace complex and is maintained by monks from
the Sankar Gompa.
Sankar. A relatively modern monastery, it is closely associated
with the Spituk monastery and serves as the residence of the head priest
- Kushok Bakula. A number of gold icons are to be found here with a miniature
statue of pure gold and a number of exciting paintings. Spituk. 8 km.
from Leh, it stands prominently on the top of hillock commanding a panoramic
view of the Indus valley for miles. Many icons of Buddha and fine Thankas
are to be found in this 15th century Gompa. The Gompa also houses a collection
of ancient masks, antique arms, and an awe inspiring image of Mahakali.
The face of the Kali image if kept covered and is revealed only at the
annual function during the festival.
Phyang. 17 km from Leh on the Leh - Kargil road, it looks like
a huge palace from afar, built by Tashi Namgyal in the later half of the
16th century AD., it belongs to the Red Cap sect of Buddhists. Hundreds
of icons of Buddha and other gods are kept on wooden shelves.
Shey. Situated on a hillock 15 km upstreams from Leh, it was once
the residence of the royal family. According to tradition, it was the
seat of power of the pre-Tibetan kings. A 7.5 m high copper statue of
Buddha, plated with gold, and the largest of its kind, is installed here.
Thiksey. 19 km from Leh, spectacularly sited, Thiksey is one of
the largest and architecturally most impressive gompas. There are several
temples in this gompa, containing images, stupas and wall paintings of
Buddha which are exquisite. Thiksey provides a panoramic view of the green
Indus valley from its vantage point atop a hill.
Hemis. 40 km from Leh, it is the wealthiest, best known and biggest
gompa of Ladakh. Its popularity stems from the mojor annual festival held
here in summer. The festival is in honour of Guru Padma Sambhav's birth
anniversary. It also has the largest Thankha in Ladakh, which is unfurled,
once in 12 years (next in 2004) Hemis was built in 1630 during the reign
of Sengge Namgyal, an illustrious ruler of Ladakh. It flourished under
the Namgyal dynasty for the royalty favoured the Drugpa sect, which managed
the monastery. It is divided into two , the assembly hall on the right
and the main temple on the left. The hall Dukhang, is also used as "green
room" by the dancers during the festival. The temple is known as
Tshogkhang. The varandahs have a surfeit of frescoes, among them the Buddhist
'wheel of life' (Kalachakra) and the lords of the four quarters, besides
the prayer wheel.
Chemery. 45 km from Leh, situated in the picturesque valley leading
to Changla, the gompa was constructed as a funeral act of merit on Sengge
Namgyal's death in 1645. A large collection of scriptures with title pages
in sterling silver and the text in gold letters is kept here. Close by
a cave monastery reputed to have been the abode of Padma Sambhav during
one of his periods of meditation.
Stakna. A few Km up streams from Thiksey, Stakna is situated in
a 60 meter high isolated rock. It belongs to Kagyupa gompa is sited in
a commanding position on its own clung of rock in the centre of Indus
valley. It was repainted in 1982 and is now one of the most colourful
and bright gompa in Ladakh. Monastery has beautiful paintings, thankhas
and statues of various ideals.
Matho. Situated on the opposite bank of the Indus across Thiksey,
Matho was established in the first half of the 16th century AD and has
valuable collection of very old and beautiful Thankhas, some in the form
of Mandalas.

Its
annual festival of Oracles in early march is an important event in Ladakhi
religious calendar. Young monks selected as oracles undergo long periods
of meditation, fasting and ritual purification to gain spiritual strength.
When possessed they perform astonishing feats with swords and knives,
cavorating blindfolded along narrow parapets.
Stok. The palace of the banished royal family, Stok has a museum
which displays fabulous period costumes and jewellery of the royalty along
with exquisite Thankas representing the life style of Sakya Muni. Interesting
historical objects like coins, armour, weapons, precious jade and porcelain
too can be seen here.
Basgo. 40 km downstream from Leh, it was the seat of power of
a branch of a Namgyal family. It was here in 1680 that invading Mongol
and Tibetan armies were held in check over a three year old seige. Original
16th century murals and other arts at Basgo are well worth a visit.
Likir. Founded in the 11th century and rededicated to a different
monastic order in the 15th century, its earlier gompa was destroyed in
a fire. The present gompa dates back to the 18th century. Skilled craftsmen
producing excellent Thankas, earthen pots and carved wooden folding stools,
live here in the village. Majestically situated, Likir commands a spectacular
view. A magnificent giant Jupiter tree, one of the few survivors of its
species, stands in the courtyard.
Alchi. 70 km from Leh, on the banks of the Indus, is the Alchi
gompa dating a thousand years back. One of its wall features thousands
of miniature sized pictures of the Buddha. Three large sized images made
of clay and painted brightly are its focal attractions. No longer an active
religious centre, it is looked after by monks from the Likir monastery.
Lamayuru. The oldest holy site in Ladakh, it was a bon shrine prior
to the advent of Buddhism. Also known as Yung Drung (Swastika) it is sited
on a high promontory overlooking the village and valley. For sheer spectacle
value no other gompa can match Lamayuru.
Mulbekh. Precariously perched a top of a 200 m high crag, it has
an imposing rock carving of Chamba, the future Buddha. On the other end
of the valley is a large vertical phallus shaped rock with a monastery
at its base.
Takthok. 50 km from Leh, situated on the top of the village. Guru
Padmashambhava used to meditate in this cave. This monastery also has
a very famous festival in the month of August. There is also a new monastery
with big statues of Guru Padmashambhava.
NAMGYAL TSEMO GOMPA
No longer inhabited, this gompa was built by King Tashi Namgyal. It forms
a part of the Leh palace complex and is maintained by monks from the Sankar
Gompa.
PHYANG GOMPA
17 km from Leh on the Leh-Kargil road, it looks like a huge palace from
afar, built by Tashi Namgyal in the later half of the 16th century AD,
it belongs to the Red Cap sect of Buddhists. Hundreds of icons of Buddha
and other gods are kept on wooden shelves.
BASGO MONASTERY
40 km downstream from Leh, it was the seat of power of a branch of
the Namgyal family. It is here in 1680 A.D. that invading Mongol and Tibetian
armies were held in check over a three year long seige. Original 16th
century murals and other arts of Basgo are well worth a visit.
CHERNREY MONASTERY
45 km from Leh, situated in a picturesque valley leading to Changia,
this gompa was constructed as a funeral act of merit on Sengge Namgyal's
death in 1645. A large collection of scriptures with title pages in sterling
silver and the text in gold letters is kept here. Close by is a cave monastery
reputed to have been the abode of Padma Sambhav during one of his periods
of meditation.
MATHO MONASTERY
Situated on the opposite bank of the Indus across Thikse, Matho was
established in the first half of the 16th century AD and has a valuable
collection of very old and beautiful thankas, some in the form of 'mandalas'.
Its annual festival of oracles in early March is an important event in
the Ladakhi religious calendar. Young monks selected as oracles undergo
long periods of meditation, fasting and ritual purification to gain spiritual
strength. When possessed they perform astonishing feats with swords and
knives, cavorting blindfolded along narrow parapets.
MULBEKH MONASTERY
Precariously perched a top 200 metre high crag, it has an imposing
rock carving of Chamba, the future Buddha. On the other end of the valley
is a large vertical phallus shaped rock with a monastery at its base.
The village of Mulbekh, on the way to Namika-La, has a unique sight a
huge image of the Buddha carved out of rock bang on the road. The monastery
here is perched on a high rock over the village and the valley, and has
some prized relics.
TAK-THOG GOMPA
50 km. East of Leh, this is the only monastery belonging to the Nying-ma-pa
order. Gum Rinpoche (Padma Sambhava) is said to have founded this monastery.
The temple where he meditated is still to be seen at Tak Thog (rock-roofed)
monastery. The monastery is tucked in the lap of a rock and owes its name
to its roof which is a natural rock. Tu-Phuk houses the images of Guru-Tsan-gyet
(eight forms of Padma Sambhava), Guru Takpo Tsahl and the 11-headed Avalokitesvara.
There are seats for His Holiness the Dalai Lama and Taklung Rinpoche;
the latter is the incarnate Lama of the monastery. The monastery stages
two festivals every year. Tak Thog Tse Chu is held from the ninth to the
eleventh day of the sixth Tibetan month. Tak Thog Wangchogis held from
the 26th to the 29th day of the ninth Tibetan lunar month.
MASHRO GOMPA
Situated on the opposite bank of the Indus across Thikse, Mashro was
established in the first half of the 16th century AD and has a valuable
collection of very old and beautiful thankas, some in the form of 'mandalas'.
Its annual festival of oracles in early March is an important event in
the Ladakhi religious calendar. Young monks selected as oracles undergo
long periods of meditation, fasting and ritual purification to gain spiritual
strength. When possessed they perform astonishing feats with swords and
knives, cavorting blindfolded along narrow parapets.
RIZONG MONASTERY
Rizong is also known as Yuma Changchubling about 73 Kms from Leh and
around 6 Kms from main road, founded about 138 years ago by the great
Lama Tsultim Nima. Gompa belong to Gelukpa order. Dress and food provisions
are provided for all member of the community by the Governing body of
the monastery. The monastery is sited in a most solitary positions and
there is a place called chulichan down the monastery. The work of spinning
wool, milking, extracting oil for the temple lamps has to be performed
by all the nuns.
BARDAN MONASTERY
The monastery of Bardan can be reached from Padum by trekking four
hours down stream. Built on a rock, it towers high above the Tserap Lingti
Chu. The monastery belongs to the Drukpa Kagyupa order, the abbot is Stakna
Rinpoche. The monastery was founded in the 16th century. Its most important
room is the Dukhang, which lies on the ground floor. The shrine on the
first floor is dedicated to Maitreya, the Buddha of future ages.
KARSHA MONASTERY
The monastery of Karsha lies to the left of the river Doda. From the
Tungri bridge, it takes four hours of trekking and three hours by the
raft on the doda, to reach it. The monks quarters and temples of this
biggest monastery of Zanskar can be seen crawling picturesquely up on
a steep mountain slope. The monastery of Karsha belongs to the Gelugpa
order and is looked after by Likir. Like in Like, the abbot is a brother
of the Dalai Lama. The Chamba Ling temple, which one encounters on the
way to the monastery, dates back to the 11th century whereas, the monastery
itself was built in the 15th century.
PHUKTAL MONASTERY
Hiking from Padum via Bardan, Mune and Char through the right side
valley of the Tserap Lingti Chu, one reaches, after about three days,
the magnificently situated monastery of Phuktal, part of which is hidden
in a cave. Phuktal founded in the middle of the 15th century belongs to
the reformed Gelygpa and is, at present the home of about 60 Yellow Hat
Monks. Below the large cave lies the monks, village with the Nyingpa Lakhang.
The cave contains the chorten with the relics of Shesreb Zangpo which
is covered by several layers of lime paint.
RANGDUM MONASTERY
Rangdum is the first Buddhist monastery one encounters on the way
from Kargil to Panikar and Parkutse. From Kargil one can reach it in a
seven to eight hours drive by Jeep. The monastery stands on a hill in
a mountain valley, which in that area is rather wide. Rangdum was founded
by the Gelugpa as in the early 16th century at present, over 40 monks
live there under their abbot Ngari Rinpoche.
SANI MONASTERY
It takes one day drive from Kargi via Rangdum to reach the monastery
and village of Sani, which lies about 10 Km before Padum. The Sani Monastery
belongs to the southern branch of the Drukpa Kagyupa school. This sanctuary
is, however for Buddhist of such high importance that even other sects
worship it deeply. According to a legend, the chorten, standing in the
oldest part of Sani monastery dates back to the 2nd century A.D. The Dukhang
which forms the center of the later built monastery part, was erected
in the early 17th century. A few meters to the north west of the monastery,
outside the wall, lies one of the eight most important cremation grounds
of Tibetan Buddhists.
TONDE MONASTERY
The village of Tonde can be reached from Padum in a four to five hours
hiking tour through a bare, desert like plateau. The monastery Marpa Ling
stands high above the village on the way to the Ronde Pass. The originally
Red Hat Monastery was reformed in time and belongs now to the Gelugpa
school. Over 50 monks of this sect are working in Tonde.
ZANGLA MONASTERY
After a five hours walk from Tonde, along the right bank of the river
Zanskar one arrives at Zangla the main village of the small principality
bearing the same name. The castle of Zangla towering on a mountain ridge
above the village is almost entirely destroyed. The Raja of Zangla lives,
nowadays in the village amongst the common people.